VERTICAL TASTING OF KAY'S AMERY VINEYARDS SHIRAZ BLOCK 6
At the Winery June, 2001
This artisanal producer in McLaren Vale has an ancient vineyard sitting right in front of the winery. The splendid Shiraz vines are over 100 years of age. The winery itself produced between 6,500 and 10,000 cases of wine, almost all of it Shiraz, with small quantities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are no white wines, although a small quantity of spectacular fortified Muscat is produced. Most of the reds spend 18 months in a combination of 50% new and 50% old American oak, but the Block 6, as well as the Hillside Shiraz, are aged in 100% American oak for 24 months. The production ranges from a low of 400 cases (in 1999 and 2000) to just over 1,000 cases from the 100+ year old vineyard that is usually cropped between 1.5-2 tons per acre. The wines are imported by Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283.
2001 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 (95-96)
This is very much a blockbuster, an almost overwhelmingly rich, massive Shiraz in the style of the 1995, 1996, and 1998. The alcohol is 14.8%, the wine inky black/purple and very thick, full-bodied, chewy, with a good 15-20 years of aging potential ahead of it. The winery thinks this could ultimately turn out to be the greatest Block 6 Shiraz that has yet been made, and there is no reason to think they are wrong, based on how it showed when I was at the winery in late June. What does the 2001 taste like at present? Keep in mind this is a barrel sample. The wine shows a blackberry liqueur note intermixed with melted asphalt, an unctuous texture, and phenomenal concentration, glycerin, and length. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. The normal quantity of 1,000 cases was produced, and this will be the first Block 6 Shiraz imported to the United States following 1998.
2000 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 90
A much lighter year in McLaren Vale, as well as the Barossa Valley to the north, this wine has nowhere near the monster size of the 1998 or 2001, but on the other hand, it is no wimpish wine either. The wine shows notes of camphor and blackberry, intermixed with some toasty American oak and licorice in a very thick, juicy style. The wine is certainly full-bodied with low acidity, and looks to be a wine for near-term drinking ... over the next 12-15 years. Production was extremely small, with only 40% of the normal level of production, hence none of this will be imported to the United States.
1999 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 93
A superb example of the Block 6, this wine shows notes of truffle, licorice, asphalt, and blackberry and black cherry fruit in a full-bodied, dense, relatively supple style. It does not have the tannin, structure, and volume of the 2001 or the 1998, but it is a beautifully rich, pure wine that should be drinkable early. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. Like 2000, production was extremely small in 1999, with only 40% of the normal level of production, hence none of this will be imported to the United States.
1998 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 98
I have to wonder if this wine would not be even more extraordinary and close to perfection if it were aged in French oak. American oak is still the big deal in Australia, despite the exceptional success the more subtle French oak has had nearby at Clarendon Hills. The 1998 shows the aggressive toasty oak in the nose, but there is no doubt that is going to be completely absorbed in another 3-5 years of cellaring, given the wine's mammoth concentration and extravagant richness. The wine has a black/purple color and an extraordinarily sweet nose of black fruits intermixed with spice box, licorice, and a touch of pepper. A monster wine on the palate, and still uncivilized and too young to actually enjoy drinking, this wine should be at its peak by 2006 and keep for up to 2020 or so. A great vintage for Block 6 Shiraz.
1997 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 93
The 1997 has a saturated plum/purple color and a sweet nose of blackberry fruit intermixed with American oak, tar, and saddle leather. The wine does not quite have the size of the 1998 (13.8% alcohol), but wonderful sweetness, a viscous texture, well-integrated acidity and tannin, and a long, supple finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.
1996 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 97
This is the first vintage that the Kay family put in 100% new American oak. A blockbuster effort, along the lines of the 1998 and 2001, this wine conceals 14.9% alcohol in its personality, which is more akin to a dry vintage port than red table wine. This wine is terrific stuff, with blackberry fruit intermixed with camphor, asphalt, pepper, and new saddle leather. Viscous, rich, full-bodied, and still youthful, it requires another two to four years of cellaring. This is another wine capable of lasting 25-30 years, and certainly qualitatively akin to the great Penfolds Grange. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.
1995 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 96
This sensational wine is on a faster evolutionary track than the 1996. However, it is nearly the same weight and richness, and certainly also powerful (14.9% alcohol). The wine is black/purple, has a nose of anise, roast beef, creosote, leather, creme de cassis, and blackberries. Very youthful but super-concentrated, full-bodied, and long, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 15-20 years.
1994 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 94
An open-knit style for the Block 6, that seems to be coming into its plateau of maturity, this dark plum/purple-colored wine shows lush opulence, supple tannin, sweetness on the attack, and moderately high alcohol (14.3%). This is a very compelling, rich, openknit expansive Block 6 to drink now and over the next 12-15 years.
1993 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 93
Aging at a glacier pace, this wine is starting to show a touch more earth, truffle, licorice, and barbecue spice along with the tell-tale blackberry and creme de cassis characteristics. Very rich, impressively extracted, full-bodied, with sweet tannin, high alcohol (14.3%), and a huge, smoky, peppery finish, this wine is less evolved than the 1994, but not far from full maturity. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020.
1992 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 88
Showing surprisingly hard tannins and a touch of greenness, atypical for this wine, the 1992 Block 6 has a saturated plum/purple color and a big smoky nose with notes of asphalt, black currants, and dill scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, but the tannins seem less ripe, giving the wine a certain rusticity and astringency. I am not sure this wine ever had quite the balance and rich flesh of its siblings. Anticipated maturity: now-2012.
1991 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6 90
A complex nose of allspice, sausage meat, smoke, leather, creosote, and black fruits is followed by a medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic wine with less polish and sweet fruit in evidence compared to more recent vintages. The wine shows plenty of spice, ripeness, full body, and less alcohol than other years (13.6%). Anticipated maturity: now2012.
Readers should also be aware that the Kay Brothers produced a Shiraz Hillside that is also aged in 100% new American oak and made from relatively young vines that are the same clone as the Shiraz planted in Block 6. The Hillside Shiraz is very much made in the same style as the Block 6. There are approximately 1,000 cases of it, and it usually sells for a good $25 less per bottle, at least in the United States. I rated the Hillside Shiraz as follows: 1997 (94), 1998 (94), 1999 (95), 2000 (90), and the 2001 (93-95+). It is very much made in the style of the Block 6, it just does not have the old vines and single block acclaim.