Robert Parkers rating system employs a 50 - 100 point quality scale. It is my belief that the various twenty (20) point rating systems do not provide enough flexibility and often result in a compressed and inflated wine ratings. THE WINE ADVOCATE takes a hard, very critical look at wine, since I would prefer to underestimate the wine's quality than overestimate it. The numerical ratings are utilized only to enhance and complement the thorough tasting notes, which are my primary means of communicating my judgments to you. |
| 96 - 100 ~~~~~~ |
An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of it's variety. Wines of this caliber are worth a special effort to find, purchase and consume. |
| 90 - 95 | An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines. |
| 80 - 89 | A barely above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of finesse and flavour as well as character with no noticeable flaws. |
| 70 - 79 | An average wine with little distinction except that it is soundly made. In essence, a straightforward, innocuous wine. |
| 60 - 69 | A below average wine containing noticeable deficiencies, such as excessive acidity and/or tannin, an absence of flavour, or possibly dirty aromas or flavours. |
| 50 - 59 | A wine deemed to be unacceptable. |
TASTING NOTES AND RATINGS KAY BROTHERS 1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNON AMERY VINEYARD ---- MCLAREN VALE (US$40.00) RED -- 92? |
| The old fashioned labels on these wines suggest history, and according to Dan Philips, the importer, the Kay family has roots in McLaren Vale that go back at least five generations. These were among the most individualistic and impressive wines I have recently tasted from Australia. Possessing undeniable character and individuality, they should be hugely popular in this country. There are just under 850-900 cases of each of these cuvees. For starters, the 1998 Merlot Amery Vineyard has a dense, opaque purple color, smoky, coffee, black cherry, cough syrup notes, with plenty of toasted new oak. The wine is fat, ripe, pretty, and rather decadent and exotic, with a heavy overlay of new American oak. It is not for everybody, but this is a flamboyant, impressively endowed Merlot from Australia. Drink it over the next 10 years. The spectacular 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Amery Vineyard (14.9% alcohol from 25 year old vines cropped at 2-2.5 tonnes per acre) offers the text book huge ripeness and burly, muscular style of Australia intertwined with an Italian-like creosote, earthy, rustic, leathery component. The wine has great fruit, a fabulous multi-layered texture, massive concentration, and noteworthy levels of glycerin, blackberry, plum, cherry, and cassis fruit. All of this tied together in a chewy, full bodied, slightly rustic style. It should continue to evolve for at least two decades. But readers take note - the notions of creosote, bay leaf, anise and leather are out of the mainstream for Cabernet Sauvignon, and are likely to be controversial. Shiraz lovers will be electrified by the three offerings from Kay Brothers. The 1998 Shiraz Amery Vineyard tips the scales at 14.8% alcohol and is made from 15-year old vines cropped at a meager 1.5-2.5 tons of fruit per acre. This is a substantial, full-throttle, somewhat old style Shiraz with smoky, earthy, leathery, charcoal, and blackberry notes in the nose and flavours. It waddles across the palate with considerable extract, weight, and heaviness. It is deep, chewy, muscular, with fruit and glycerin largely concealing some tannin. The wood seems to be kept within reason (it was aged 18 months in American oak barrels, but it is hard to believe there is much new oak based on its aromas and flavours.) This wine should evolve for at least another 12-15 years. Two additional prodigious wines are the 1998 Shiraz Amery Vineyards Hillside and the nearly perfect 1998 Shiraz Amery Vineyards Block 6. The 1998 Shiraz Hillside was aged in 100% new American oak from relatively young vines that are the same clone of Shiraz as planted in the Block 6, which still contains 100+ year old vines. This is a full throttle, artisinal, powerful, super-concentrated wine with opaque black/purple color, notes of new oak intermixed with licorice, blackberry, cassis, asphalt, and leather. The wine is huge, massive, chewy, and unctuously textured. It is a total turn-on. Drink it over the next 15-20+ years. Even more compelling is the 1998 Shiraz Block 6 (924 cases, made from 106-year old vines cropped at 1.5-2 tons per acre). The wine is impressively thick-looking, has formidable concentration, gorgeously pure, peppery, cre`me de cassis notes, intermixed with new saddle leather, incense, smoky charcoal, and vanillin. Fabulously concentrated and unctuously textured, with a finish that remained on my palate for 60+ seconds, this large-scaled, classic Australian Shiraz from old, unirrigated, head pruned vines should age effortlessly for 20-25 years. If you can find it and afford it, don't hesitate! Anticipated maturity: now-2025. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283 |
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