advocate rating

RATING SYSTEM
Robert Parkers rating system employs a 50 - 100 point quality scale. It is my belief that the various twenty (20) point rating systems do not provide enough flexibility and often result in a compressed and inflated wine ratings. THE WINE ADVOCATE takes a hard, very critical look at wine, since I would prefer to underestimate the wine's quality than overestimate it. The numerical ratings are utilized only to enhance and complement the thorough tasting notes, which are my primary means of communicating my judgments to you.

96 - 100 ~~~~~~	An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of it's variety. Wines of this caliber are worth a special effort to find, purchase and consume.
90 - 95	An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines.
80 - 89	A barely above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of finesse and flavour as well as character with no noticeable flaws.
70 - 79	An average wine with little distinction except that it is soundly made. In essence, a straightforward, innocuous wine.
60 - 69	A below average wine containing noticeable deficiencies, such as excessive acidity and/or tannin, an absence of flavour, or possibly dirty aromas or flavours.
50 - 59	A wine deemed to be unacceptable.

ISSUE 155 - THE WINE ADVOCATE
TASTING NOTES AND RATINGS

KAY BROTHERS 2002 CABERNET SAUVIGNON AMERY VYDS.     McLAREN VALE   (US$30.00)             RED     (91)
KAY BROTHERS 1992 MUSCAT                             McLAREN VALE   (not yet determined) FORTIFIED (96)
KAY BROTHERS 2002 SHIRAZ AMERY VINEYARD              McLAREN VALE   (US$30.00)             RED     (92)
KAY BROTHERS 2002 SHIRAZ BLOCK 6                     McLAREN VALE   (US$90.00)             RED     (95+)
KAY BROTHERS 2002 SHIRAZ HILLSIDE                    McLAREN VALE   (US$45.00)             RED     (95)

All of these wines, even the expensive Block 6 Shiraz, are finished with screw caps. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Amery Vineyards may be the finest Cabernet Kay Brothers has yet produced. A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged several years in wood, it possesses a Pauillac-like nose of black currants, cedar wood, tobacco leaf, and spice box. With elegant, sweet fruit, medium to full body, and supple tannin, this beauty will drink well now and over the next decade. The deep plum-colored 2002 Shiraz Amery Vineyards is a supple textured, sexy, sensual Shiraz offering a big, sweet nose of melted licorice, black cherry liqueur, blackberries, and earth. Full bodied and opulent, this hedonistic as well as intellectual turn-on can be enjoyed over the next 7-10 years. A glorious example of South Australian Shiraz is the 2002 Shiraz Hillside. Made from relatively young vines (8-34 years of age), this flamboyant, pleasant 2002 is impossible to resist. Already rocking and rolling, it has 10-15 years of aging potential. A deep plum/ruby/purple hue is followed by glorious aromas of black fruits, flowers, dusty, loamy, truffle-like scents, and a classic combination of pepper and licorice. The wine saturates the palate with a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, and alcohol (15%). The finish is opulent and multilayered. In total contrast, the 2002 Shiraz Block 6 (made from 112 year old vines cropped at a mere 1-2 tons of fruit per acre) is the antithesis of the Hillside cuvee. Backward and nearly impenetrable, its inky/ruby/purple color is accompanied by high levels of tannin, huge structure, and massive concentration. It requires 3-6 more years to become civilized and accessible. This dense Shiraz saturates the palate with extract and concentration as well as elevated tannin. It is amazing one winery could produce two wines that are so totally opposite. Only consumers with cool cellars and the patience to wait 5-6 years should purchase this blockbuster. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022+.
Lastly, the light medium amber colored, explosively aromatic 1992 Muscat exhibits a sumptuous bouquet of marmalade, brandy-macerated white currants, figs, and raisins. Unctuously textured, sweet, and full bodied, it offers a hedonistic smorgasbord of heavenly delights. While it will not improve in the bottle, it should age for a decade or more. Once opened, it should be consumed within 2-3 days. Importer Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283