Robert Parkers rating system employs a 50 - 100 point quality scale. It is my belief that the various twenty (20) point rating systems do not provide enough flexibility and often result in a compressed and inflated wine ratings. THE WINE ADVOCATE takes a hard, very critical look at wine, since I would prefer to underestimate the wine's quality than overestimate it. The numerical ratings are utilized only to enhance and complement the thorough tasting notes, which are my primary means of communicating my judgments to you. |
| 96 - 100 ~~~~~~ |
An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of it's variety. Wines of this caliber are worth a special effort to find, purchase and consume. |
| 90 - 95 | An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines. |
| 80 - 89 | A barely above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of finesse and flavour as well as character with no noticeable flaws. |
| 70 - 79 | An average wine with little distinction except that it is soundly made. In essence, a straightforward, innocuous wine. |
| 60 - 69 | A below average wine containing noticeable deficiencies, such as excessive acidity and/or tannin, an absence of flavour, or possibly dirty aromas or flavours. |
| 50 - 59 | A wine deemed to be unacceptable. |
TASTING NOTES AND RATINGS KAY BROTHERS 2001 CABERNET SAUVIGNON McLAREN VALE (not yet determined) RED (90-92) |
| I had the pleasure of visiting this traditional winery which can trace its roots back for five generations. There is a tendency to suggest these wines are slightly rustic, but I think that misses the point. They are fullbodied, concentrated, traditionally-styled, authentic reds. As longtime readers know, it is not easy to find high quality, New World Merlot, especially from Australia, but this 1999 Merlot (100% Merlot aged in old oak) is a serious, opaque ruby/purple-colored effort offering copious quantities of sweet and sour cherry characteristics mixed with hints of fudge, sausage, and loamy soil notes. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, and fleshy, it is best consumed over the next 7-8 years. The outstanding 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged primarily in old wood) is a formidably concentrated, highly extracted, opaque ruby/purple-colored effort revealing notes of cassis, leather, earth, and spice. With a sweet attack as well as mid-palate, and a long powerful, moderately tannic finish, it will be at its finest between 2004-2014. Shiraz is king at Kay Brothers. The 1999 Shiraz, aged 18 months in American oak casks was produced from yields of 1.5-2.5 tons of fruit per acre, it possesses a dense ruby/purple color, a velvety texture, and a sweet perfume of pepper, blackberries, tapenade, and earth. Dense, full-bodied, up-front, and accessible, it will drink well for 8-10 years. Made from the same clonal material planted in their ancient (108 years old) Block 6, the 1999 Shiraz Amery Vineyard Hillside (these vines are 8 years old) is aged in 100% new American oak. While a fabulous blockbuster, I wonder if it wouldn't be even better if aged in French oak? A dense opaque purple color is followed by a sweet smoky bouquet of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, melted licorice, truffles and toasty wood. This full-bodied, heady, expansive, in-your-face Shiraz looks set for 15+ years of aging. While not as accessible as the regular Shiraz, it is loaded, and potentially superior. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2017. There are 450 cases produced of this estate's flagship wine, the Amery Vineyard Block 6. Walking past these 108-year old vines, I was amazed by their gnarled character (even though I have seen plenty of ancient vines in southern France). The 1999 Block 6 boasts layers of concentration, huge body, and massively extracted blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with leather, animal fur, and licorice. There is a lot going on in this blockbuster, broodingly backward yet super-concentrated Shiraz. It represents the best of McLaren Vale in a very traditional sense. This cuvee often shuts down after bottling re-emerging in 4-5 years and lasting for two decades. Anticipated maturity 2004-2018. The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon does not possess the power of the 2001 or the elegance and concentration of the 1999. Lighter-styled with a French-like weight as well as textural profile, it exhibits notes of tobacco, black currants, earth, and subtle oak in its medium-bodied, drinkable personality. Enjoy it over the next 6-7 years. Aged 18 months in American oak, the dense purple-colored, smooth, velvety-textured 2000 Shiraz reveals low acidity, and ripe berry fruit intermixed with toasty oak and compost notes, excellent richness, medium to full body, and a style that begs for consumption over the next 7-8 years. Also lighter than its 1999 or 2001 counterparts the dense purple-colored 2000 Shiraz Amery Vineyard Hillside is spicy and peppery with a floral (acacia flowers) note intermixed with melted asphalt, black cherries, blackberries, and currants. While ripe, full-bodied, and outstanding, it is a mere mortal compared to its younger and older siblings. Anticipated maturity: now-2014. The opaque purple-colored 2000 Shiraz Block 6 Amery Vineyard, while not the size of the 1998, 1999, or 2001, is no wimpish wine. Harmonious and well-balanced with outstanding seamlessness, it is far more accessible than the previously mentioned behemoths. The 2000 offers up smoky creosote aromas entwined with plum, prune, and blackberry scents. Rich, chewy, soft, round, and voluptuous, with noticeable oak, it is a concentrated, delicious, full-throttle, south Australian Shiraz. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. The lightest Merlot I have tasted from proprietor Colin Kay, the 2000 narrows in the mouth, but the aromatics and attack are attractive. Aromas of earth, sweet berry and cherry fruit mix with smoke and cola in this medium-bodied Merlot. It is best drunk during its first 5-7 years of life. The 2001 Shiraz looks to be a return to the style of the blockbuster 1998. Denser and richer than the 2000, this dense purple-colored effort is full-bodied as well as loaded, its sweet tannin suggests early maturity. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2016. The dense ruby-colored 2001 Merlot offers sweet, fat, jammy black fruit favours, a full-bodied chunky palate, and abundant muscle as well as richness. While it has not yet begun to exhibit many nuances, it should be a candidate for an outstanding score. Anticipated maturity 2004-2012. The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Amery Vineyard appears to be a synthesis in slyle between the 1996 and 1998 vintages. Powerful tannic and concentated with greater density than the 2000 and 1999, it exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color as well as notes of creme de cassis intermixed with earth, minerals, and foresty aromas. With mouthsearing tannin and great intensity, it will be at its finest between 2007-2018. The opaque purple-colored 2001 Shiraz Amery Vineyard Hillside (1,000 cases) possesses low acidity as well as extraordinary dense, chewy notes of blackberries, blueberries, melted licorice, creosote, smoke, and earth, Although it is not yet revealing many nuances, it is spectacularly concentrated, with fabulous flavor extraction and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This monster should rival the 1998. It will be released in fall, 2003. The 2001 Shiraz Block 6 Amery Vineyard is built along the lines of the 1998. With 14.8% alcohol, and huge levels of tannin balanced by a wealth of blackberry and cherry fruit intertwined with sweet notes of compost, smoke, camphor, and earth, this massively full-bodied, dense, opaque purple-colored effort is Shiraz at its most concentrated. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Patience! Importer: Dan Philips The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA: tel (888) 472-5283 |
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